Marni | Spring Summer 2019 Full Fashion Show | Exclusive
After a strong roster of shows on Day One, Milan continues with a season of must-have winter pieces for the world’s menswear stars.
Ralph Lauren gave classic American dressing fused with a British hunting aesthetic, while Jil Sander’s military minimalism met techno leather daddy. These of course were celebrations of heritage merged with modern design, but Costume National’s two-piece suits in red, mustard and acid green were fashion throwbacks that did not bear repeating.
As if we mere mortals needed a reminder that we’re not Versace-worthy, Donatella sent her demigods for a glow-in-the-dark light jog at the beginning of this seasons’s show.
High-vis models clad in LED sportswear did after-dark laps before the house lights came on, revealing an homage to early-Nineties tech and Sixties space-age glamour.
Cyber suiting kicked off proceedings before shearling and coyote fur-trimmed silver leather motorcycle jackets and happy pants took us on an Artic exploration.
But it didn’t stop there as Versace continued to surprise (and shock) with outerwear in an almost-rude baby blue, a strong teal theme worn with harnesses that reminded us ofStarship Troopers, before plum, mauve and violet gave an unexpected pop of colour in suits, coats and everything in-between.
Versace knows how to do the blockbuster, and with a mere 66 looks, this show was no exception. Though, a pre-catwalk cull would have reduced this collection to its essence making it more coherent, however, when has Versace ever been known for restraint?
Neil Barrett delivered a season for which he has come to be known: Simple well-tailored basics that are wearable with a sports-luxe edge.
Mission brown was the staple worked in many ways with the Seventies aesthetic favoured by so many of the houses this season. Leathers, shearling jackets and zippered sports jackets dominated, which were highlighted by cobalt, vermillion and mustard separates.
It was this fusion that made this season transcend decades, which could’ve quite easily been on the back of a young Mick Jagger or one of the Brit Pop era superbands, like Supergrass and Blur.
Often eclipsed by its women’s line, Marni’s menswear offering had the casual simplicity that devotees of the brand favour.
Every look whispered style and meticulous craftsmanship, with simple details such as strategic pleats and well-placed pockets setting it apart from the high street.
While the art smock-style tops might be reserved for the more daring amongst us, Marni’s ready-to-wear is the embodiment of winter sophistication.
Video: Marni [#HEATSEEKER] | KrownMedia
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